Wednesday 16 August 2017

FASHION WITH 3D WRINKLE


What is Wrinkle?
A wrinkle, also known as a rhytide, is a fold, ridge or crease in the cloth or garments. Wrinkle is a particular type of pressure in the finished fabric. It is produced during finishing operations by the thickness of the seam used to join pieces for processing. Wrinkle resistance in a fabric is a desirable attribute, but it is not easily measured quantitatively. Wrinkle resistance varies from quite low in many fabrics to very high in resilient fabrics. In order to form a wrinkle, a fabric’s wrinkle resistance must be overcome. The fabric may, however, produce strains and store potential energy that can become evident as wrinkle recovery under suitable conditions.                                                                                                                         
 There are two types of wrinkle process:
  1. Permanent Wrinkle Process
  2. Overall Wrinkle Process
1. Permanent Wrinkle Process:
  • Generally permanent wrinkle is doing on garments after all types of wet process wash in dry position.
  • Permanent wrinkle is done on the garments made from all types of fabrics like, Denim, Twill,
  • Canvas, Poplin, Corduroy, Knit & Polyester etc.
  • For permanent wrinkle we are use resin which is spray on garments particular/specific areaby nozzle.
  • Resin is diluted with water which is recommended by chemical supplier, generally 20% resin& 80% water.
  • After resin spray on respective area, then fold by buyer demand and clip attached upon the folding area.
  • Now hangers the garment in to the hanger trolley, Trolley capacity approx. 80-100 pcs garments.
  • Then trolley with resin treatment garments put inside the Industrial oven.
  • Set temperature 140°c to 160°c, Time 20-40 minutes (if folding layer is less,
  • Less time required, if folding Layer is more, more time is required).
  • Start the machine.
  • When setting time is over, machines are automatically off.
  • After heating time over garments with hanger will stay 10 minutes for cold in oven.
  • Now open the door and trolley with garment out from oven.
  • Open the clip from garment and go to quality section for quality checking & delivery.
2. Overall Wrinkle Process:

  • Generally overall wrinkle is doing on garments after all types of wet process & dry process
    3d wrinkle denim

    .
  • Overall wrinkle is done on the garment made from all types of fabrics like, Denim, Twill,
  • Canvas, Poplin, Corduroy, Knit, Polyester, Viscose & Nylon etc.
  • Now tie the whole garment in tight position by thread.
  • For overall wrinkle, we are used resin in washing machine with water and run tied garments for 5 to 10 minutes at 50°c temperature.
  • Then unload the garments from washing machine to trolley for hydro extractor to remove the excess water.
  • Open the tie or cut the thread.
  • Now hanger the garments into the hanger trolley. Trolley capacity appreciates 80-100 pcs garments.
  • Then trolley with resin treatment garments put inside the Industrial oven.
  • Set temperature 140°c to 160°c, Time 50-70 minutes.
  • Start the machine.
  • When setting time is over, machines are automatically off.
  • After heating time over garments with hanger will stay 10 minutes for cold in oven.
  • Now open the door and trolley with garments out from oven and go to quality section,checking & delivery.

GARMENTS FASHION PP SPRAY

Potassium permanganate spray (P.P Spray): Potassium permanganate spray is done on jeans to take a bright effect on sand blast area. One important thing about potassium permanganate spray is, this is usually a sporting process to increase the effect of sand blast. Potassium permanganate solution is sprayed on blasted area of jeans garment with the help of normal spray gun. This potassium permanganate spray appears pink on garment when fresh and turns to muddy brown on drying. The garment is hanged in open to dry after potassium permanganate spray and when the potassium permanganate turns its colors completely then it is considered to ready for next process. It is always followed by neutralization process. Sodium Meta bisulphate is most commonly used neutralizer. A number of products are available in market for neutralization process like sodium Meta bisulfate selected on the bases of effect required on blasted area.
Potassium permanganate sprays concentrations ranges from .25 gm per liter to 15.00 grams per liter depending to required results and fabric types. Usually indigo died fabrics are treated with low concentrations whereas Black Sulfur Fabric requires high concentrations to treat with.                                                                                                                                                   Process of P.P Spray: 1. Potassium permanganate spray in best is done in specific spray booths, where rubber dummies are installed for holding garments. Garments are mounted on the dummies and air is filled so the garment is full fit exposed. Specific dummies are used for different sizes and styles, like for kids, men’s, trousers, jackets, shirts etc. The booths are fitted with proper air exhaust system. This system leads the spray to treatment room where the chemical mixed air is usually passed through the water showers. Potassium permanganate is dissolved in water and the clean air is blown to open. Shower water is further treated with mild quantities of neutralizer before adding to main drain. But where the potassium permanganate spray is used in low concentrations then there is now need to treat shower water. This mild potassium permanganate mixed water is rat her useful for water reservoirs to keep the water clean and germs free.                                                                                                                                                                                                                   
2. Garments are mounted on air-filled rubber dummies and chemical is sprayed on blasted areas. The variables in spray process are as follows:

  • Distance of spray gun to garment: Less distance will give more defined and sharp effect whereas distant spray will result in more mild and merged effect. Distance ranges from one foot to two and a half feet. 

  • Air to water ratio of gun: This is to be set very carefully. Low air pressure possibly will through KMnO4 drops on garment resulting in bright white spots whereas high pressure will produce very low bright effect spray effect to areas where it is not required. 
Potassium Permanganate Solution Concentration: This will control the extent of brightnes

ACID WASH

Acid Wash:

Acid washing process was created in Italy and patented in 1986. Garments made from heavy jeans and denim fabrics, course canvas, sweater and thick twill etc. are washed by applying acid wash technique. By applying acid wash technique, irregular pattern fading effect is produced in the garments, where the effects Objects of Acid Wash:
1. To produce irregular fading effects or old looking effect.
2. For soft feeling to wear the garments i.e. to improve softness.
3. To achieve the buyer washing standard.
4. To increase rubbing fastness. more pronounce than stone wash. Acid wash is a very dirty process due to widely use of pumice stone.   Acid Wash Process:
A processor Acid wash of 60 kg batch of Denim Trouser as mentioned below:-

First Step: Pretreatment/Desizing.
  1. Add water @ L : R = 1 : 10 .............. 600 litres.
  2. Start Machine.
  3. Add desizing agent @ 1 gm/litre .................600 Gms.
  4. Add detergent @ 1 gm/litre ........................ 600 Gms.
  5. Temperature............................. 60°c.
  6. Time........................... 20 mts.
  7. Drop the liquor.
  8. Rinse one for 3 minutes (cold).
Second Step:Hot wash

  1. Add water @ L: R = 1: 10.............. 600 litres.
  2. Temperature............................. 60°c.
  3. Time........................... 5 mts.
  4. Drop the liquor.
  5. Here hot wash is used to remove the adhering materials from the garment surface.
  6. Unload the garments from the washing m/c in the trolley.
  7. Load the pre treated garments in the dryer m/c.
  8. Dry the garment completely & unload the garments.
  9. The pumic stones used for acid wash need to pre-treat in the following chemical solution:
  10. Water ..................... 100 L
  11. Potassium per manganate.............. 1000 Gms.
  12. Phosphoric Acid............................... 250 Gms.
  13. Stire the solution in a stainless steel tub with dry pumic stone.
  14. Soak the stones with the chemical solution ......... 10 –15 minutes.
  15. The stones will pick up the solution. Then the soaked stones are dried in the open air for.............. 2 to 3 hrs.
  16. Then pre-treated garment 30 –40 kg per batch load in the dry washing machine.
  17. Load the per-treated stones (about 50 kg) in washing machine.
  18. Start machine running for each batch ........................ 7 to 10 mts.
  19. Stop machine running.
  20. Unload the treated garment separately. Pumic stones with P.P. solution hit on garment surface as a result fadding will be developed.
  21. Then load the stones treated garment in another washing machine.
Third Step:Wash for Cleaning

  1. Batch wt................................ 70 kg.
  2. Add water @ L: R = 1: 8.............. 560 litres.
  3. Add detergent @ 1 gm/litre .............560 Gms.
  4. Temperature............................. 40°c -50°c.
  5. Time ..................................10 mts.
  6. Drop the liquor.
  7. Here detergent is used to remove the breaking stone dust and chemicals from the garment surface.
Fourth Step:Whitening/Neutralization

  1. Add water @ L: R = 1: 8.............. 560 litres.
  2. Machine running.
  3. Add Metabisulphite @ 5 gm/litre..... 2800 Gms.
  4. Cold temperature.
  5. Time 5 mts.
  6. Drop the liquor.
Fifth Step: Soft Wash

  1. Add water @ L: R = 1: 7.............. 490 litres.
  2. Machine running.
  3. Add Acetic acid @ 0.6 gm/litre ..................... 294 Gms.
  4. Add Softner @ 1 gm/litre ........................ 490 Gms.
  5. Then unload the garments.
Sixth Step:Hydro Extractor Machine

Seventh Step:Dryer Machine.

  • After hydro extraction the garments are sent to drying m/c for complete drying.
Eighth Step:Quality & Delivery.

  • After drying the garments go to quality checking & rectify washing fault and then good one deliver.
  

GARMENTS WASHING

Garment Wash:
Indigo jeans were once the only item processed by the garment washing method, but this is no longer the case. A wide variety of different types of woven and knit fabrics dyed by different systems are now used in apparel that is garment washed before retail distribution. Emphasis is on comfort and softness. Also, some fashion trends favor the broken-in look and worn/faded seams that can only be achieved through garment processing. 


Garment washing machine
Types of Garment Washing:
The different types/methods of washing are mensioned below:

Primarily garment washing are two types

1. Wet process/Chemical process
2. Dry process/Mechanical process

1. Wet process/Chemical process

  • Normal wash/ garment wash/rinse wash
  • Pigment wash
  • Caustic wash
  • Enzyme wash
  • Stone wash
  • Stone enzyme wash
  • Tinting (Tie) & Over Dyeing(Dip Dyeing)
  • Super white wash
  • Bleach wash
  • Acid wash
  • Silicon wash
  • Soft wash
2. Dry process/Mechanical process
  • Sand blasting
  • Hands scraping
  • Over all wrinkles
  • Permanent wrinkle
  • Broken and tagging
  • Grinding and destroy
  • PP spray and PP sponging etc.
Procedure of Garment Washing:
1. Garments can be inverted to minimize unwanted abrasion streaks (especially useful when preset creases are present).
2. Load machine with garments.
3. Desize with alpha amylase enzyme and detergent.
4. Drain.
5. Rinse.
6. Fill machine with water and heat to 60◦C. The liquor ratio can range from 10:1 to 20:1. A number of synthetic detergents can be used. Also, alkaline products such as soda ash or caustic soda can be added in amounts ranging from 0.5 to 2.0 grams/liter. Some chemical suppliers offer special products that accelerate the wash down process, dependent upon the particular dyestuff used.

7. Wash/tumble action for 20-60 minutes, depending upon desired effect.
8. Drain and rinse.
9. Apply softener.
10. Tumble dry.
11. Invert garments, if previously turned.
12. Press, if required.

properties for textile fiber

Chemical composition of some common fibers Type of fiber Cellulose ...