Tuesday, 3 October 2017

textile properties

Fiber Properties for specific requirements

Utility of fibers are broadly catagorized into 2 different uses- one is Apparel or Domestic use and the other is Industrial use.In order to be used in each of these each of these catagories the fiber has to meet some specific requirements.
They are:

Apparel/Domestic Requirements

  • Tenacity: 3 - 5 gramddenier
  • Elongation at break: 10 - 35%
  • Recovery from elongation: 100% at strains up to 5%
  • Modulus of elasticity: 30 - 60 gramddenier
  • Moisture absorbency: 2 - 5%
  • Zero strength temperature (excessive creep and softening point): above 215°C
  • High abrasion resistance (varies with type fabric structure)
  • Dye-able
  • Low flammability
  • Insoluble with low swelling in water, in moderately strong acids and bases and conventional organic solvents from room temperature to 100°c
  • Ease of care

Industrial Requirements

  • Tenacity: 7 - 8 graddenier
  • Elongation at break: 8 - 15%
  • Modulus of elasticity: 80 graddenier or more conditioned, 50 graddenier wet
  • Zero strength temperature: 250° C or above

Properties of Fiber | Properties of Textile Fiber

Properties of Textile Fiber
Normally properties of textile fiber are three types:

    A) Physical Properties
    B) Mechanical Properties
    C) Chemical Properties

 
A) Physical Properties  
  1. Length
  2. Fineness
  3. Crimp
  4. Maturity
  5. Lusture
  6. Softness
  7. Resiliency
  8. Work of rupture
  9. Density
  10. Appearance
  11. Flexibility
  12. Toughness
  13. Elongation
B) Mechanical Properties  
  1. Strength
  2. Elasticity
  3. Extensibility
  4. Rigidity
C) Chemical Properties  
  1. Solubility in aqueous salt
  2. Solubility in organic salt
Without above that properties, fiber has also 
  1. Thermal Properties
  2. Torsional Properties
 

Duties and Responsibilities of the Apparel Industrial Engineer

 Duties and Responsibilities of the Apparel Industrial Enginee

Benefits of Apparel Engineering:
  1. Work Simplification.
  2. Increase in productivity.
  3. Increase in profits.
  4. Increase in earnings.
Role of Apparel Industrial Engineer:
As for as the Apparel Engineer concerns having eight areas of responsibility that need to be well organized given under headings.
  1. Safety.
  2. Line balancing.
  3. Quality –Operation Control.
  4. Training-How to train the new employees and sewing operators.
  5. Operator output-maintains high output and also the improving the abilities of those with low output.
  6. Loss control-minimize off-standard loss.
  7. Waste control-in materials, supplies and machinery.
  8. Standard conditions-in the workplace, in sewing method, in the machines.
APPAREL Industrial Engineers are also be showing their skill and attitude towards as an ’Executive as a Leader ‘to maintain the following three areas to be focused mentioned here under.
  1. Maintenance.
  2. Quality work and
  3. Productivity, 
Working together with the co-employees towards the ‘Team Spirit’. Due to increase the higher productivity, he has to take the following tasks to be achieved properly.
  1. Sewing operators transfers between the operations.
  2. Assigning of off-standard tasks.
  3. Overtime planning.
  4. Rights to reject the defective product.
  5. Rights to take Disciplinary actions against the employees/operators.
  6. Recommendations for dismissal.
To execute his duties and responsibilities in such a good manner, every industrial engineer must have the primary and secondary obligations.

Primary obligations are listed below:

  • Provide safety.
  • Proper plan and line balancing the production lines
  • Control quality and free from defects.
  • Develop the employees and sewing machine operators.
  • Material utilization in an economical approach.
  • Follow up on low output employees.
  • Maintain discipline inside the Apparel factory.
Secondary obligations are mentioned below:
  • Bundle handling and movement.
  • Adjustments to machines.
  • Distributes supplies.
  • Handle parts that required reprocessing.
  • Samples.
  • Maintenance.
  • Housekeeping.
  • Miscellaneous.
Duties of apparel industrial engineer:

1. Apparel industrial engineers must daily activities are listed below:
  • Arrive early to factory.
  • Greet arriving employees.
  • Encourage them to start work early.
  • Check attendance.
  • Make adjustments to balance the line as per absence.
  • Attend the production meeting and discuss yesterday’s result and today’s targets and plans.
  • Plan to increase the employees’ efficiency.
  • Plan to improve the outgoing quality.
  • Plan to prepare for routine problems or problems that might arise.
2. Apparel engineers are having their work-check list during the day as mentioned below:
  • Measure the target vs. actual output in every hour.
  • Check quality level.
  • Check inline and end line quality reports.
  • Discuss with quality inspectors perform quality drill.
  • Work with the low output operators.
  • Check the proper method and to be implemented.
  • Motivate and empower all the operators.
  • Follow up on newly joined operators in training.
  • Follow up the operator in re-training.
  • Identify the bottle neck operations and balance accordingly.
  • Provide immediate and continuous follow up to repairs.
  • Monitor and follow up on bundle tracking and outgoing bundles.
  • Authorize any off-stand and ‘clock out’.
  • Order supplies and material for production,
  • And at the end of the each and working must make sure the operators have turned off their machines, cleaned their work area,kept a piece of fabric under the pressure foot, and covered their machine.
  • Check and authorize the production worksheet.
  • Organize production sheets and check the last hour production with the sheet.
  • Review the hourly production report and WIP-report.
  • Analyze the next day’s needs and take notes for implementation.
  • Calculate the next day’s initial inventory according to production information.
3. Apart from the above, he has to do weekly assignment as mentioned below:
  • Review the capacity studies of low output operators.
  • Plan operator cross training to solve balancing problems, and as and when required he has to resolve any operator efficiency problems.
  • Follow up and motivate new employees, work out quality problems with operators; review the proper method with them when necessary.
Conclusion:
Industrial Engineers role is very important in the Apparel Manufacturing sector for the betterment of achieving productivity, quality consciousness on the product output, employees, operators to be trained well to achieve targeted efficiency and growth of the industry at most satisfied level.

Books for Reference:
  1. Apparel Manufacturing Analysis, Sewn product Analysis-GLOCK.R.E .and KUNZ, G.I.
  2. Industrial Engineering and Management-Mr O.P.KHANNA.
  3. Industrial Engineering in Apparel Production-Mr .V. RAMESH BABU

 

Wednesday, 16 August 2017

FASHION WITH 3D WRINKLE


What is Wrinkle?
A wrinkle, also known as a rhytide, is a fold, ridge or crease in the cloth or garments. Wrinkle is a particular type of pressure in the finished fabric. It is produced during finishing operations by the thickness of the seam used to join pieces for processing. Wrinkle resistance in a fabric is a desirable attribute, but it is not easily measured quantitatively. Wrinkle resistance varies from quite low in many fabrics to very high in resilient fabrics. In order to form a wrinkle, a fabric’s wrinkle resistance must be overcome. The fabric may, however, produce strains and store potential energy that can become evident as wrinkle recovery under suitable conditions.                                                                                                                         
 There are two types of wrinkle process:
  1. Permanent Wrinkle Process
  2. Overall Wrinkle Process
1. Permanent Wrinkle Process:
  • Generally permanent wrinkle is doing on garments after all types of wet process wash in dry position.
  • Permanent wrinkle is done on the garments made from all types of fabrics like, Denim, Twill,
  • Canvas, Poplin, Corduroy, Knit & Polyester etc.
  • For permanent wrinkle we are use resin which is spray on garments particular/specific areaby nozzle.
  • Resin is diluted with water which is recommended by chemical supplier, generally 20% resin& 80% water.
  • After resin spray on respective area, then fold by buyer demand and clip attached upon the folding area.
  • Now hangers the garment in to the hanger trolley, Trolley capacity approx. 80-100 pcs garments.
  • Then trolley with resin treatment garments put inside the Industrial oven.
  • Set temperature 140°c to 160°c, Time 20-40 minutes (if folding layer is less,
  • Less time required, if folding Layer is more, more time is required).
  • Start the machine.
  • When setting time is over, machines are automatically off.
  • After heating time over garments with hanger will stay 10 minutes for cold in oven.
  • Now open the door and trolley with garment out from oven.
  • Open the clip from garment and go to quality section for quality checking & delivery.
2. Overall Wrinkle Process:

  • Generally overall wrinkle is doing on garments after all types of wet process & dry process
    3d wrinkle denim

    .
  • Overall wrinkle is done on the garment made from all types of fabrics like, Denim, Twill,
  • Canvas, Poplin, Corduroy, Knit, Polyester, Viscose & Nylon etc.
  • Now tie the whole garment in tight position by thread.
  • For overall wrinkle, we are used resin in washing machine with water and run tied garments for 5 to 10 minutes at 50°c temperature.
  • Then unload the garments from washing machine to trolley for hydro extractor to remove the excess water.
  • Open the tie or cut the thread.
  • Now hanger the garments into the hanger trolley. Trolley capacity appreciates 80-100 pcs garments.
  • Then trolley with resin treatment garments put inside the Industrial oven.
  • Set temperature 140°c to 160°c, Time 50-70 minutes.
  • Start the machine.
  • When setting time is over, machines are automatically off.
  • After heating time over garments with hanger will stay 10 minutes for cold in oven.
  • Now open the door and trolley with garments out from oven and go to quality section,checking & delivery.

GARMENTS FASHION PP SPRAY

Potassium permanganate spray (P.P Spray): Potassium permanganate spray is done on jeans to take a bright effect on sand blast area. One important thing about potassium permanganate spray is, this is usually a sporting process to increase the effect of sand blast. Potassium permanganate solution is sprayed on blasted area of jeans garment with the help of normal spray gun. This potassium permanganate spray appears pink on garment when fresh and turns to muddy brown on drying. The garment is hanged in open to dry after potassium permanganate spray and when the potassium permanganate turns its colors completely then it is considered to ready for next process. It is always followed by neutralization process. Sodium Meta bisulphate is most commonly used neutralizer. A number of products are available in market for neutralization process like sodium Meta bisulfate selected on the bases of effect required on blasted area.
Potassium permanganate sprays concentrations ranges from .25 gm per liter to 15.00 grams per liter depending to required results and fabric types. Usually indigo died fabrics are treated with low concentrations whereas Black Sulfur Fabric requires high concentrations to treat with.                                                                                                                                                   Process of P.P Spray: 1. Potassium permanganate spray in best is done in specific spray booths, where rubber dummies are installed for holding garments. Garments are mounted on the dummies and air is filled so the garment is full fit exposed. Specific dummies are used for different sizes and styles, like for kids, men’s, trousers, jackets, shirts etc. The booths are fitted with proper air exhaust system. This system leads the spray to treatment room where the chemical mixed air is usually passed through the water showers. Potassium permanganate is dissolved in water and the clean air is blown to open. Shower water is further treated with mild quantities of neutralizer before adding to main drain. But where the potassium permanganate spray is used in low concentrations then there is now need to treat shower water. This mild potassium permanganate mixed water is rat her useful for water reservoirs to keep the water clean and germs free.                                                                                                                                                                                                                   
2. Garments are mounted on air-filled rubber dummies and chemical is sprayed on blasted areas. The variables in spray process are as follows:

  • Distance of spray gun to garment: Less distance will give more defined and sharp effect whereas distant spray will result in more mild and merged effect. Distance ranges from one foot to two and a half feet. 

  • Air to water ratio of gun: This is to be set very carefully. Low air pressure possibly will through KMnO4 drops on garment resulting in bright white spots whereas high pressure will produce very low bright effect spray effect to areas where it is not required. 
Potassium Permanganate Solution Concentration: This will control the extent of brightnes

ACID WASH

Acid Wash:

Acid washing process was created in Italy and patented in 1986. Garments made from heavy jeans and denim fabrics, course canvas, sweater and thick twill etc. are washed by applying acid wash technique. By applying acid wash technique, irregular pattern fading effect is produced in the garments, where the effects Objects of Acid Wash:
1. To produce irregular fading effects or old looking effect.
2. For soft feeling to wear the garments i.e. to improve softness.
3. To achieve the buyer washing standard.
4. To increase rubbing fastness. more pronounce than stone wash. Acid wash is a very dirty process due to widely use of pumice stone.   Acid Wash Process:
A processor Acid wash of 60 kg batch of Denim Trouser as mentioned below:-

First Step: Pretreatment/Desizing.
  1. Add water @ L : R = 1 : 10 .............. 600 litres.
  2. Start Machine.
  3. Add desizing agent @ 1 gm/litre .................600 Gms.
  4. Add detergent @ 1 gm/litre ........................ 600 Gms.
  5. Temperature............................. 60°c.
  6. Time........................... 20 mts.
  7. Drop the liquor.
  8. Rinse one for 3 minutes (cold).
Second Step:Hot wash

  1. Add water @ L: R = 1: 10.............. 600 litres.
  2. Temperature............................. 60°c.
  3. Time........................... 5 mts.
  4. Drop the liquor.
  5. Here hot wash is used to remove the adhering materials from the garment surface.
  6. Unload the garments from the washing m/c in the trolley.
  7. Load the pre treated garments in the dryer m/c.
  8. Dry the garment completely & unload the garments.
  9. The pumic stones used for acid wash need to pre-treat in the following chemical solution:
  10. Water ..................... 100 L
  11. Potassium per manganate.............. 1000 Gms.
  12. Phosphoric Acid............................... 250 Gms.
  13. Stire the solution in a stainless steel tub with dry pumic stone.
  14. Soak the stones with the chemical solution ......... 10 –15 minutes.
  15. The stones will pick up the solution. Then the soaked stones are dried in the open air for.............. 2 to 3 hrs.
  16. Then pre-treated garment 30 –40 kg per batch load in the dry washing machine.
  17. Load the per-treated stones (about 50 kg) in washing machine.
  18. Start machine running for each batch ........................ 7 to 10 mts.
  19. Stop machine running.
  20. Unload the treated garment separately. Pumic stones with P.P. solution hit on garment surface as a result fadding will be developed.
  21. Then load the stones treated garment in another washing machine.
Third Step:Wash for Cleaning

  1. Batch wt................................ 70 kg.
  2. Add water @ L: R = 1: 8.............. 560 litres.
  3. Add detergent @ 1 gm/litre .............560 Gms.
  4. Temperature............................. 40°c -50°c.
  5. Time ..................................10 mts.
  6. Drop the liquor.
  7. Here detergent is used to remove the breaking stone dust and chemicals from the garment surface.
Fourth Step:Whitening/Neutralization

  1. Add water @ L: R = 1: 8.............. 560 litres.
  2. Machine running.
  3. Add Metabisulphite @ 5 gm/litre..... 2800 Gms.
  4. Cold temperature.
  5. Time 5 mts.
  6. Drop the liquor.
Fifth Step: Soft Wash

  1. Add water @ L: R = 1: 7.............. 490 litres.
  2. Machine running.
  3. Add Acetic acid @ 0.6 gm/litre ..................... 294 Gms.
  4. Add Softner @ 1 gm/litre ........................ 490 Gms.
  5. Then unload the garments.
Sixth Step:Hydro Extractor Machine

Seventh Step:Dryer Machine.

  • After hydro extraction the garments are sent to drying m/c for complete drying.
Eighth Step:Quality & Delivery.

  • After drying the garments go to quality checking & rectify washing fault and then good one deliver.
  

GARMENTS WASHING

Garment Wash:
Indigo jeans were once the only item processed by the garment washing method, but this is no longer the case. A wide variety of different types of woven and knit fabrics dyed by different systems are now used in apparel that is garment washed before retail distribution. Emphasis is on comfort and softness. Also, some fashion trends favor the broken-in look and worn/faded seams that can only be achieved through garment processing. 


Garment washing machine
Types of Garment Washing:
The different types/methods of washing are mensioned below:

Primarily garment washing are two types

1. Wet process/Chemical process
2. Dry process/Mechanical process

1. Wet process/Chemical process

  • Normal wash/ garment wash/rinse wash
  • Pigment wash
  • Caustic wash
  • Enzyme wash
  • Stone wash
  • Stone enzyme wash
  • Tinting (Tie) & Over Dyeing(Dip Dyeing)
  • Super white wash
  • Bleach wash
  • Acid wash
  • Silicon wash
  • Soft wash
2. Dry process/Mechanical process
  • Sand blasting
  • Hands scraping
  • Over all wrinkles
  • Permanent wrinkle
  • Broken and tagging
  • Grinding and destroy
  • PP spray and PP sponging etc.
Procedure of Garment Washing:
1. Garments can be inverted to minimize unwanted abrasion streaks (especially useful when preset creases are present).
2. Load machine with garments.
3. Desize with alpha amylase enzyme and detergent.
4. Drain.
5. Rinse.
6. Fill machine with water and heat to 60◦C. The liquor ratio can range from 10:1 to 20:1. A number of synthetic detergents can be used. Also, alkaline products such as soda ash or caustic soda can be added in amounts ranging from 0.5 to 2.0 grams/liter. Some chemical suppliers offer special products that accelerate the wash down process, dependent upon the particular dyestuff used.

7. Wash/tumble action for 20-60 minutes, depending upon desired effect.
8. Drain and rinse.
9. Apply softener.
10. Tumble dry.
11. Invert garments, if previously turned.
12. Press, if required.

properties for textile fiber

Chemical composition of some common fibers Type of fiber Cellulose ...